February 2, 2018

Alexa Says My Device is Not Responding: What Do I Do?

Smart Home Glitches and How to Resolve Them:



Fixing Issues with Amazon's Alexa


Smart Home devices are fantastic, when they are working properly.  But like any other electronic device, Smart Devices can experience errors.  So what do you do when you ask Alexa to turn on the lights, and she tells you a device is not responding?  Today, we're going to look at troubleshooting errors with Alexa and your Smart Home Devices.

Alexa Says "I'm Having Trouble Connecting to the Internet."  What Do I Do?

Like any wi-fi device, Alexa can experience connectivity issues.  A user generally discovers the Echo or Dot has lost connectivity when they issue a command, and Alexa responds with "I'm having trouble connecting to the Internet right now."  Additionally, the light ring will flash red rather than blue.  Despite the fact my Dot is the closest device to my router, it seems to experience connectivity problems more often than my other Alexa-enabled devices.

Sometimes, connectivity issues are caused by a blip in the wi-fi. This blip might be caused by interference from a microwave, a cordless phone, a back-up beeper, or any number of things that can cause wi-fi "noise."  I find often, if I wait a few seconds and reissue my command, the connectivity issue resolves itself.  If it doesn't, the next step is to reboot the malfunctioning Alexa device.  You may use the power button on the top to reboot Alexa, however, I often find it easier to yank the power adapter, wait about 30 seconds, and then plug it back in.  That way, I do not inadvertently turn off the microphone by mistake.  Like with most electronic devices, rebooting can clear about 80% of issues.  


If Alexa is still having connectivity issues, it's time to reboot your modem and router. Remember, if you have separate boxes, you need to reboot the modem FIRST and wait until all the lights have come back on, including the wi-fi light, before powering on your router.  Order is paramount here.  Again, if you cannot locate the on/off switch, you can yank the power adapter out or simply unplug and re-plug the device.  And it is always best to turn your modem and router off, then wait at least 3 minutes before turning your modem back on.  Then wait another 3-5 minutes before switching on your router.  

If Alexa fails to connect after rebooting your modem and router, try rebooting the Alexa device again.  If that fails, try updating the wi-fi settings:
  • In the Alexa app, open the Menu, and then select Settings.
  • Select your device and then select Update Wi-Fi. 
  • On your Echo device, press and hold the Action button until the light ring changes to orange. The app will connect to your Echo, and a list of available Wi-Fi networks will appear.
  • Select your Wi-Fi network and enter the network password (if needed). If you don't see your Wi-Fi network, scroll down and select Add a Network (for hidden networks) or Rescan.
  • Select Connect. Once connected, a confirmation message appears in the app.
This should get your Echo Device working again.  And the nice thing is you can say "Alexa, are you connected to the Internet?" to determine if the connectivity issue is resolved.  If all is well, Alexa will respond "Yes, I am connected."

If your wi-fi is down, Alexa will not be able to control anything.  She will not set new alarms or timers either, but timers and alarms set prior to the outage will continue to function.  Alexa should come back automatically once your Internet has been restored. If she doesn't, reboot her and follow the troubleshooting steps outlined above.

Alexa Says "Your Hue Lights are Not Responding." What Do I Do?

Last week, I was working away when dusk began to fall. So I asked Alexa to "Turn on Star," and she responded "Your Hue Lights are not responding."  I asked again, to no avail.  Next, I reached for my smartphone, opened the Hue App, and turned on my light that way.  When the light successfully came on, I asked Alexa to turn it off. She again told me "Your Hue Lights are not responding." My Hue and my Echo had stopped communicating with each other.

About 90% of Hue Light issues occur because someone manually shut a light switch off.  So if you ask Alexa to turn on a light, and she responds "Okay" but the light does not come on, try manually switching it on and off until the light illuminates.  Sometimes, manually cycling the light is the only thing you need to do to restore voice control.

However, Star is a hanging lamp, with the on/off switch physically located behind a heavy piece of furniture. My whole reason for using a Hue Bulb in Star is because the manual switch is almost impossible to reach. So I knew "user error" was not the problem here. It was time to troubleshoot. Was just Star malfunctioning, or was it ALL my Hue Lights?

I tried to turn on "Bertha," another Hue-equipped lamp. Alexa again told me my Hue Lights were not responding. This helped me determine it was not an issue with a single bulb, but rather with Alexa recognizing my Hue System as a whole.

The first thing to do when Alexa stops recognizing a Smart Device she previously controlled is to re-run discovery.  The easiest way to do this is by saying "Alexa, discover my devices."  This simple action may restore Alexa control to your Smart Device.  And of course, rebooting your Router and the connected Hue Hub is always the next thing to try.  Most of the time, this will restore Alexa control to your Hue Lights.

This did not work when it came to Star though.  So the next step in troubleshooting was to open the Alexa app.  Often, toggling a Smart Device on and off using the app is enough to restore Alexa voice control.    Unfortunately, I needed to go a step further this time.

Next, I opened the skills section of the Alexa app.  I tapped on the "Your Skills" link in the upper right corner to bring up a list of my skills.  I entered "Hue" in the search box to avoid having to scroll through all of my activated skills, then tapped on "Hue."  Then I tapped on settings.  I checked to see if my account was still linked.  Then I tapped on "Manage Smart Home Devices," and it brought me to  my "Smart Home Devices" tab.  I tapped on "Star," and saw Alexa app control had been restored.  I then tried toggling the lamp on and off via voice, and it worked. Next, I told Alexa to turn on Bertha.  Voice control was working again with all my Hue Bulbs.

If you go through these steps, but still are having Alexa control issues, you will need to try disabling and re-enabling the associated skill.  Go to the "Skills" section of the Alexa app. Tap on "My Skills," search for Hue, tap it, then tap "Disable Skill."  Close the app. Reopen the Alexa app, go back to skills, bring up the Hue Skill, and tap on "Enable Skill." You will need to relink Alexa with your Hue Account.  Then, re-run Device Discovery.

When it comes to Hue Lights, Alexa should be able to control them all, or she should be able to control none.  So if Alexa fails to turn on a single light via voice, try asking her to turn on a different Hue Light.  If she  can turn on others, that indicates an issue with the specific Hue Bulb itself.  

If Alexa is only having issues with a single bulb, try toggling Alexa control on and off. To do so, go to the "Smart Home" section of the Alexa app. Find the bulb that is not responding and tap on its name.  Next, tap on "Edit."  You will see a slider at the bottom of this screen. It should read "Enabled." Tap the slider until it turns off and shows "Disabled." Tap it again to re-enable.  This may fix the connectivity issues with that single bulb.

Of course, you need to keep your Hue App up to date.  When Hue updates its app, it will also update the software for the individual bulbs.  If you open the Hue App and find it is not controlling your bulbs either, go to the Settings section (gear icon) and tap on Software Update. Updating your Hue software can fix connectivity issues with the Hue App. as well as with Alexa control.

If you've updated your Hue App and you are still having issues with that bulb, try deleting the bulb from within the Hue App, and then re-adding it.  Then re-run discovery on Alexa.  If nothing works, it may indicate you have an issue with that specific bulb.  If the bulb is still under warranty, contact Phillips.  

Alexa Says my Smart Outlet is Not Responding. What Do I Do?

Smart Outlets can be finicky.  Of all Smart Devices, Smart Outlets seem to have a great variance in capabilities.  Some generic Smart Outlets are just junk.  If you are having connectivity issues with a no-name Smart Outlet, it may very well be because you get what you pay for.  Often, these generic outlets claim compatibility with a few different Smart Control apps, and trying to pair the device with a different control app may solve your connectivity issues.  But unfortunately, many of the no-name plugs are just garbage and are not worth the money.  If a no-name plug keeps dropping wi-fi, and you do not like to constantly troubleshoot, it may be time to invest in a better Smart Plug.  Sometimes, the best thing to do is to replace the cheapie with a Wemo or TP-Link.

However, quality Smart Plugs can also glitch.  The minis seem to be more prone to dropping out than their larger compadres.  If a mini is constantly dropping wi-fi, you may need to move it closer to your router, and replace the mini with the full-sized Smart Outlet.  The internal antennae are just better on the larger plugs.

Still, like the Echo, few Smart Outlets are error free. Even a good Smart Plug will fail to respond at some point.  So long as it is not a regular occurrence, you probably do not need to replace or relocate the plug.

The first thing to check is user error.  At least once a month, my Dad complains his Wemo is no longer turning the light on and off.  I say "Alexa, turn on Wemo," and then I manually turn the switch on the lamp.  In my Dad's case, most of his errors come from using the switch on the lamp itself to turn off the light, and failing to turn the switch manually before trying to turn it back on by voice.

Not all issues are due to user error though.  But as with most electronics, many connectivity and control issues can be solved with a reboot.  EVERY Smart Outlet has a manual switch on the outlet itself.  The minis usually have a square button on the end of the plug, while the larger ones usually have a button by the status light.  Pressing this reset button effectively reboots the Smart Plug.  

So the first thing to do to address connectivity issues is to press the button on the plug itself. You should press this button a few times.  Each press should cycle the attached appliance/light on and off.  If that does not fix the issue, try rebooting your modem/router.

If your Smart Device is still not responding, open its associated app.  See if you can control the outlet using the app.  If the app is also failing to connect to the device, you may need to delete and reinstall your Smart Outlet.  Make sure the Alexa app is closed, and delete/re-add the Smart Outlet through its own app, using the EXACT naming conventions you used previously.  So long as you do this, you should NOT lose any settings previously configured in the Alexa app.  Ensure you enable remote access in the app before re-running discovery on Alexa.

I had to reinstall my own WeMo Mini after an extended power outage.  Once I had restored control through the WeMo app, I had to re-run discovery in Alexa. Because I maintained my naming conventions, I did NOT need to reconfigure the WeMo in the Alexa app itself.  My Wemo still appeared in my "Bedroom" group, and could be controlled along with my other Smart Devices with a single Alexa command.  

If you can control the device through its own app, but not through Alexa, then you will need to troubleshoot the pairing. The steps are almost the same as the ones we took to troubleshoot the Hue Lights - Alexa pairing.  Open the Alexa app.  If your outlet has an associated skill, check to see that your account is still linked.  Try disabling and re-enabling the skill.  Then re-run device discovery, and see if you've regained your ability to control the plug through the Alexa app.  If you can control the outlet using the Alexa app, you should also be able to control it via voice, with Alexa.  

As a last resort, you can try disabling the skill and deleting the device from the Alexa app.  Then, reboot your mobile device, open up the Alexa app, and re-add the device. You will then need to re-enable the skill and re-link your accounts.  You will need to re-add the plug to any groups or scenes in which it previously appeared.  Then, re-run discovery. You should once again be able to control your plug with your voice.

Troubleshooting Your Alexa-Connected Smart Devices: General Guidelines

EVERY Alexa-Compatible Smart Device will most likely glitch at some point in time.  Just because a device responded to voice commands a minute ago does not mean it will the next time you ask.  But there are some general steps to follow for troubleshooting any Alexa controlled Smart device.  

The second thing to do is to check your network.  Some devices will work with local wi-fi only; other devices turn into Dumb Devices whenever the Internet goes down.  And Alexa depends on Internet connectivity to control most things.  Many outside factors can cause temporary wi-fi interference, causing Alexa control to temporarily fail.  That is why the first thing to do is wait 30 seconds, and then issue the voice command again.  It may work on the 2nd or 3rd try with no further tinkering on your part.  If you think the issue has anything to do with your Internet connection, ask "Alexa, are you connected to the Internet?" If she replies negatively, you know you need to either reboot Alexa or your  Internet box.

If your network is fine, the next thing to do is check the device's associated app.  Make sure the app can still control the device. If it cannot, you know the issue lies with the Smart Device itself, rather than with its Alexa pairing.  Get the Smart Device back up, and then re-run Device Discovery in Alexa, (or say "Alexa, discover my devices,") and see if voice control is restored.

If its app can control the Smart Device, but Alexa cannot, it's time to troubleshoot using Alexa.  See if you can control the device using the Alexa app.  Sometimes, merely toggling a device on and off using the Alexa app is enough to restore voice control.  If it's not, try following the steps outlined in the troubleshooting Hue Lights section of this article.  Try disabling and re-enabling the skill.  Ensure your Alexa app is up to date.  Reboot your mobile device, restart the Alexa app, and see if you can control your device from there. Rerun discovery and see if voice control is restored.  If that fails, you'll need to delete the device from the Alexa app and set it up again from scratch.

Alexa Says a Device is Not Responding, but She Controls it Just Fine?

Be aware that sometimes Alexa reports a device is not responding when it really is. Sometimes, Alexa doesn't realize she actually did what you told her to, and fallaciously reports she's having issues.  Other times, she seems to think she completed a command, but nothing happens.  In other words, Alexa is not always a reliable reporter.  Don't always believe Alexa when she says a device is not responding.  

I have this annoying issue with Alexa, my TV, and my Harmony Hub. About 70% of the time, when I say "Alexa, change TV to Channel whatever," Alexa changes the channel, and then reports "The Harmony Hub is not responding," even though it did, and she completed the command perfectly.  

Other times, I ask Alexa to issue a Harmony Hub command, and she says "Okay," but nothing happens.  And I have to reissue the command to have Alexa perform the action I want. Alexa is particularly unreliable when it comes to my Harmony Hub and realizing if a command actually worked.  And this issue has gotten worse since they upgraded Alexa's Fire TV control abilities.  But it is something I have learned to live with. It seems to be specific to my TV set, as I do not get the same unreliability with voice controlling my other entertainment components.    I only see this type of behavior with my other Smart Devices about 2% of the time.

So if Alexa seems as if she's glitching, don't automatically go into troubleshooting mode.  Always try asking Alexa a second time if she reports issues.  Then try issuing a control command for a different device to see if it's Alexa or a particular device that is having problems.  If it turns out to be Alexa, try rebooting her before you do any further troubleshooting.  

I'm Having A Lot of Drop-Outs; Sometimes, it's Alexa and Sometimes it's a Smart Device. What Now?


The more devices you add to a network, the more robust that network needs to be.  All routers have limits to the number of devices they can control. Combined modem/routers are often not robust enough to handle the demands of a Smart Home, as well as all of the PCs, phones, and tablets fighting for bandwidth.  This is especially true if you are still using the equipment your ISP provided you with five years ago.

Your router may randomly begin to drop devices when too many things try to connect at once.  And it will generally drop the one it senses is not actively using the connection. It may not pick those devices back up when other, more demanding devices cease their bandwidth hogging.  When you reboot the router, it now has bits and bytes for your smart Device again, and connectivity is restored. (This is way over-simplified, for purposes of this discussion.)

Sometimes, upgrading your equipment can put an end to random device dropping.  If you have a combined router/modem, you can basically configure it to act as a modem only, and add a more robust router into the equation.  Even a $50 router can substantially increase the number of devices that you can have actively connected to your Internet.  

The more devices you connect, the more likely it is that your set-up has exceeded your ISP-issued box's capabilities.  Think how much longer it would take to drain a pound of spaghetti using a funnel than it would using a colander. A funnel has a single pipe through which all that water must flow, while a colander has dozens.  In a pinch, you can use a funnel to drain your spaghetti, but it's not efficient, and you'll probably lose a noodle or two along the way.  A colander disperses the water much more efficiently. Likewise, a more robust router has more than one pipe through which data can flow, and it disperses the bits and bytes much more efficiently.  The many pipes help to ensure that data flows better and nothing clogs the pipes or gets lost in the process.

A Smart Home should be trouble free more often than it is in need of troubleshooting.  If you are constantly needing to troubleshoot your Smart Devices, chances are there is an equipment issue somewhere.  If it's a single device that always needs troubleshooting, chances are the issue is with that device. But if the wonky device tends to vary on a day to day basis, your weak link is most likely your router.

Does Having a Mish-Mash of Different Manufacturer Devices Matter at All?

Because I am a Techie and a Reviewer, I have a mish-mash of Smart Devices from different manufacturers.  The downside to this is having at least a half-dozen different apps on my phone, with each manufacturer providing its own app.  I have to keep all of these apps to re-configure my devices, as needed, despite the fact I have control integrated through Alexa.  The cheaper the plug, the worse the app, and the generic plugs tend to require more background data than the name brands. In other words, the generic Smart Devices tend to be bandwidth hogs, which is a definite negative if your network is already strained. They also seem to have more connectivity issues, especially when it comes to remote control, (i.e. controlling from an outside wi-fi network.)  When I finally find a generic plug and control app that I can recommend, this blog's readers will be the first to hear.  In other words, if your network is already struggling, and you don't like tinkering, you may want to stick to the more reliable brands.  

Hue Bulbs, and other Smart Devices using the Zigbee protocol, act as their own repeaters.  This means they carry signals to each other, rather than relying solely on your router to deliver them.  Thus, they do not place the same drag on your network as individual Smart Outlets. They may be a better choice for wi-fi dead spots, so long as they are in proximity of another bulb that the signal reaches.  They may be a better choice than hub-less Smart Bulbs from your Smart Plug manufacturer for already congested networks.  It may also be a reason to consider an Echo Plus for your next Alexa device, as it acts as the Hub for Hue Bulbs and other Smart Devices.  If you do not already own a hub, it is an economical way to integrate its functions into your Alexa-powered Smart Home.

Likewise, if your mobile device is already overloaded with apps, and you don't have an old phone or tablet you've dedicated to Smart Home control, you may want to pick a brand or two and stick with them.  Just about EVERY Smart Device Manufacturer requires its own app for initial set-up, and you need to keep them in order for the device to operate correctly.  Remote control is much more difficult when you have to open 10 different apps to do what you want.  

But when you get down to it, it really doesn't matter if you have devices from 20 different manufacturers or just a few.  The best thing about Alexa is that she can integrate devices from a slew of different manufacturers into scenes and groups, for easy, single word control.  Apps like Yonami and IFTTT can also help.  If someone buys you a TP-Link Bulb, there's no reason to say "We're a Wemo family!" or "We're a Hue Household!"  So long as the device has the features and functions you need, and it's Alexa-compatible, it doesn't matter who makes it.    The Alexa ecosystem ties together devices from a plethora of different manufacturers to make control a breeze, be it via voice command or the Alexa app.

Summary


Smart Homes are a great thing, and voice controlled Smart Homes are even better.  It's especially nice to have a choice between vocal and silent/mobile control of an appliance or light. But like anything having to do with technology, the voyage is not always smooth.  Sometimes, things work better than they do at other times. 

It can be frustrating when a voice command does not produce the desired results. Most of us have children, significant others, or roommates who neither listen to nor do what we ask. We do not need a stupid Smart Home device to add to our stress by not listening or doing.  We just want our tech to work, and we panic when it doesn't.

With Alexa, a lot of issues are fleeting.  Sometimes, all it takes is repeating yourself to get Alexa to respond, just like it does with your family.  Other times, a little more troubleshooting is necessary.  The first thing to remember is that wi-fi suffers from a lot of interference, and this interference often passes quickly.  Smart Devices depend on wi-fi for control, so if the wi-fi blips, so does your Smart Device.

Alexa will let you know if she is having connectivity issues.  Rebooting her can solve this, as can rebooting your Internet Box (modem/router.) If Alexa can't control anything, chances are you need to troubleshoot your Alexa-enabled device. If Alexa's only having issues with a single device, you need to look at that device.  Sometimes you need to reboot the Smart Device itself.  If that doesn't help, it's time to open your apps.  Start by checking out the device's status in its own app, and then move on to re-pairing it with Alexa. Once you get it working with the Alexa app, you should be able to voice control again.

If you are having constant issues with devices dropping out, you may need to look at your Networking Equipment.  Simply upgrading your router can help with many connectivity issues.  But when it comes to Smart Devices, it's the sheer number and their draw on your bandwidth that really matters.  Alexa is compatible with devices from many different manufacturers, and she doesn't care about brand-loyalty.  Buying devices made by the same manufacturer cuts down on app-clutter, but it really does not effect performance.  On the other hand, some generic devices can use more of your Internet than they should, which ultimately can degrade the performance of your network.  These can also be wonkier when it comes to remote control.  In this way, brand can be a consideration when looking at your overall device layout.

I probably have converted about 80% of my home lighting to Smart Lights, either via Smart Bulbs or Smart Outlet.  And I find my setup works as I want about 95% of the time.  I have fewer issues since I upgraded my router to one capable of handling hundreds of devices, rather than the one capable of no more than a dozen that my ISP wanted me to use.  And my own Smart Home is full of a mish-mash of different devices.



Now, we're interested in hearing from our readers. What type of Smart Devices do you have in your own home? Do you find yourself having issues?  Or is your Smart Home fairly stable and reliable? What types of steps do you take when things glitch?  Hit us up in the comments and let us know.  And as always, thanks for reading.




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